Homemade London All articles
Kitchen Projects

One Knob, No Proof: Baking Bread in a Flat Where the Oven Fibs

Homemade London
One Knob, No Proof: Baking Bread in a Flat Where the Oven Fibs

Photo: Andy Li, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

The dial on my oven goes up to 200°C, then gives up. There is no 220, no 230, no reassuring little flame icon that means business. Just a wobbly knob, a fan that rattles like a Tube carriage, and a landlord who once described the whole thing as “recently serviced” with the confidence of a man who has never baked a loaf in his life.

For a long time I treated this oven like a bad flatmate. I avoided it, blamed it, and occasionally tried to bargain with it at 7pm on a Sunday. But bread is stubborn, and so am I. Over the past few months I’ve been making overnight dough, testing a £6 oven thermometer and generally learning to work with the oven I have rather than the one I wish I’d rented.

This is not a story about perfect bakery bread. It’s about a decent loaf, a crisp crust and a bottom that doesn’t taste like charcoal, all from a London rental kitchen with no proving drawer and not much worktop.

First, stop trusting the dial

The most useful thing I bought was not flour or a banneton. It was a cheap oven thermometer from a hardware shop on the high street. I hung it from the middle shelf, shut the door, set the dial to 200°C and waited twenty minutes.

The thermometer said 221°C at the back and nearer 185°C at the front. The dial was not lying, exactly. It was simply describing a mood.

That one experiment changed everything. If your oven is a fan oven — and most rental flats seem to have one — the temperature will vary across the cavity and cycle up and down as the element clicks in and out. The number on the dial is a suggestion. The thermometer is the gossip you actually need.

My routine now is boring but effective. I preheat for at least 30 minutes, not the 10 minutes I used to give it. I put the thermometer where the bread will actually sit. I keep a note on my phone of the real temperature at the back, middle and front. And I rotate the loaf halfway through if the crust is colouring unevenly.

A dough that suits a cold flat

Without a proving drawer, you need a dough that can cope with a cool kitchen. Mine is a simple overnight loaf: 500g strong white bread flour, 10g fine salt, 7g instant yeast and about 350g water. That’s a soft dough, around 70% hydration, but not so wet that it behaves like a puddle on the counter.

I mix it in a big bowl with a sturdy spoon, leave it for ten minutes, then give it a few folds in the bowl. After that it goes into the fridge overnight with a plate on top. The cold slows everything down, which is handy when your flat is 17°C and the only warm spot is the top of the fridge.

In the morning I shape it on a floured board, put it in a floured tea towel or a cheap proving basket, and leave it near the fridge or on a shelf above the radiator. It takes an hour or two to come back to life. You’re looking for a dough that feels puffy and slightly nervous when you poke it, not one that has gone flat and defeated.

The pot, the parchment and the burnt-bottom problem

A cast-iron pot is the rental baker’s friend, because it traps steam and gives you a crust without needing a professional oven. Mine came from a car boot sale and has a chip on the lid. It cost less than a round of drinks.

I preheat the pot in the oven at whatever the dial’s top setting is — for me, 200°C — for a good 30 minutes. Then I lower the dough in on a sheet of parchment, put the lid on, and bake for 20 minutes. After that I take the lid off and give it another 20 to 25 minutes.

The first time I did this, the bottom of the loaf was darker than I wanted. Not ruined, but close. The fan oven had a hot spot right under the pot, and the parchment wasn’t enough to protect it. The fix was simple: I put an empty baking tray on the shelf below the pot. It acts as a heat shield. I also double up the parchment now. The bottom still gets a proper bake, but it stops short of bitterness.

If you don’t have a cast-iron pot, a heavy lidded saucepan or a deep roasting tin with foil over the top will do. It won’t be identical, but it will be bread.

How to map your oven without losing a Saturday

You don’t need a notebook and a lab coat. Just do this once:

My oven runs hot at the back and cool at the front, so the loaf goes in slightly towards the front and gets a half-turn at the 15-minute mark. It sounds fussy. It takes four seconds.

What actually came out

The first few loaves were uneven. One had a crust like a paving slab and a crumb that was almost there. Another was pale on top because I’d put it too low. But by the fourth attempt I had a loaf with a crackling crust, a soft middle and a bottom that tasted of bread rather than regret.

It won’t win a baking competition. It doesn’t need to. It made toast for three mornings, a decent cheese sandwich and a very satisfying dinner with soup. The whole thing cost less than a couple of coffees, and the oven thermometer has already paid for itself in fewer burnt bases.

The landlord’s oven and I have come to an arrangement. I don’t ask it to be something it isn’t, and it doesn’t ruin my Sunday. If your dial stops at 200°C and your fan sounds like public transport, you can still bake proper bread. You just need a thermometer, a pot and a bit of patience with the knob.

All Articles

Related Articles

Spores, Mist and a Very Patient Kitchen: My First Oyster Mushroom Harvest

Spores, Mist and a Very Patient Kitchen: My First Oyster Mushroom Harvest

Crusts, Crumbs and Second Chances: Five November Suppers From a £2 Bakery Bag

Crusts, Crumbs and Second Chances: Five November Suppers From a £2 Bakery Bag

Six Inches of Daylight: A Winter Salad Plan for London Windowsills

Six Inches of Daylight: A Winter Salad Plan for London Windowsills